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Monte Rosa Haute Route (Spaghetti tour)

On the Breithorn ridges

Due to the lack of snow falls last Winter and Spring, the descent from Margharita hut to the footpath near Monte Rosa is very dangerous : many crevasses and fragile snow bridges, we have decided to change the route of the Monte Rosa Haute Route, which will be : 


Day 1 : Meeting time 7.00 am in front of the desks of Montenvers train, Chamonix. Transfer to Gressonney in the guide's car. Cable-car and the footpath up to Quintino Sella hut.


Day 2 : Castor (13,870 feet), Peak Felik (13,700 feet), Quintino Sella hut


Day 3 : Paso of Lyskamm (13,451 feet), Pyramid Vincent (13,828 feet), Gnifetti hut


Day 4 : Balmenhorn (13,759 feet), Corno Nero (14,031 feet), Ludwigshöhe (14,241 feet), Parrotspitze (14,540 feet), Margerita hut on top of Signalkuppe (14,940 feet).


Day 5 Zumsteinspitze (14,970 feet), descent to Gressonney by glacier, footpath, cable car, transfer and separation in Chamonix






Close to Zermatt and the vast Gornergletscher glacier, the Monte Rosa group comprises 18 peaks above 12,000 feet. During this altitude tour, you will climb 11 of these peaks, and you will sleep one night in the highest hut of Europe, Margerita Hut on top of SignalKuppe, 14,940 feet asl.


To add speed to safety throughout the ascents of this course, we post one mountain guide for four climbers. Two roped parties will be set up for each ascent of the programme : two climbers will be roped up with the Mountain Guide, and two climbers will form an autonomous roped party, getting technical advices and training from the Mountain Guide.


5 days, departure each Sunday from 17 of June till 9 of September 2018, one mountain guide for four climbers, PRICE 1,179 Euros. 


Free round trip shuttle from Chamonix (contact us for detailed information).


This programme, including a 4,000 meters peak ascent on Day 1, requires a prior acclimatization to altitude.




Your level : you have soon practised mountaineering during one week, walking and climbing with crampons, or you soon have climbed the Mont-Blanc with us. You apply correctly the basic techniques with crampons on easy ascents, descents and crossings. You are in good condition (you practise endurance sports twice a week).




Route : Meeting point in Täsch, transfer to Zermatt, Klein Matterhorn cable car, West Breithorn (13,661 feet), central Breithorn (16,648 feet), Val d'Ayas Guide's hut / Castor (13,870 feet), Peak Felik (13,700 feet), Quintino Sella hut / Paso of Lyskamm (13,451 feet), Pyramid Vincent (13,828 feet), Gnifetti hut / Balmenhorn (13,759 feet), Corno Nero (14,031 feet), Ludwigshöhe (14,241 feet), Parrotspitze (14,540 feet), Margerita hut on top of Signalkuppe (14,940 feet) / Zumsteinspitze (14,970 feet), descent to Zermatt, transfer and separation in Täsch.





To get more informations on this programme :


Detailed chart


- Your outfit





Photos of the tour :



Breithorn ridges. Foreground : Pollux Peak.
On the Breithorn ridges
On Castor summit ridge
Descent to Quintino Sella hut
Sella hut. On its left, Castor ridges and Felik Peak.
At dawn, on the glacier to be crossed to reach Nose of Lysksamm slopes
The last slope during the ascent of Lyskamm Paso
Seen from Lyskamm Paso, the snowy ridges of Castor, the Matterhorn, and, on its right, Lyskamm spurs.
From left to right, five 13,000 feet peaks : Parrotspitze, Ludwigshöhe, Corno Nero, Balmenhorn, Vincent Pyramid
From left to right, the snowy ridge of Lyskamm Paso, Lyskamm Nose shelf, and Lyskamm peak
At dawn, seracs close to Gnifetti hut
Going to Margharita hut, wiew on Lyskamm
Balmenhorn Peak. In the distance, on the right, emerging from the clouds, the Mont-Blanc group.
Statue of the Christ, on Balmenhorm peak
Not far from Corno Nero summit
The highest hut of Europa, Margherita hut, 14,940 feet asl
At dawn, on top of Zumsteinspitze
Crevasse, on the glacier named Gornergletscher, with the Lyskamm North Faces in the middle distance
Pig and Matterhorn
From left to right, Pollux, and Breithorn ridges
Monte Rosa hut
Gornergletscher, with, from left to righ, Lyskamm peaks, Castor and Pollux
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